Home > My Everyday Life > my first official surf day of the year

my first official surf day of the year


'squan parking lot

After a heavy night of fun showing Brian how crazy Jersey shore can be, I woke up to a rainy overcast day BUT we finally had waves. Chris rolled out earlier than I did to get in as many as possible but I had to stay behind to finish up some homework. Being responsible sucks sometimes but I have to keep up this GPA.

Finished rocking out some management and grabbed the al merrick longboard from atop the fridge. Cruised up to the beach and I was feeling like this day was going to shape up to be a good one. I did some pretty heavy stretching, watched a couple sets roll in, timed my entry and paddled this bad boy out. Everyone else was in wet suits, but Chris, Brent and I were just braving the elements without protection.

We conducted the first official “board” meeting of the day and each paddled into the coming wave. As luck would have it, both Chris and I caught it. I greeted him with a “hi Chris”, he let loose a “Heyo!” and we laughed all the way down the wave. My feeling was right. This was going to be

its grainy, but that is for sure me. look at the broad shoulders, ha I kid

a good day, but I didnt know this was shaping up to be something I would remember for a lifetime. One for one on waves. Nice.

Sitting on the board Just past the break and talking with your boys has got to be one of the best things in the world. Its relaxing to just hang in the water, cut up with some jokes, drop in when the time is right and repeat. To make it even better, it started to rain. I mean we are already wet so it really didnt matter but it turned the scene into something truly memorable. Rain sprinkling down in large drops causing the ocean to bubble and ripple all while watching the local shredders drop into some of the most consistant waves of the summer thus far.

It was something I will def remember for a long time. Overcast days can be amazing as long as you’re sitting on your board and paddling in when the time’s right. This day reminded me what it was like to actually surf. Something I hadnt experienced since Oahu 2006 with my DLI crew. To paddle into a wave, the feel the of the ocean pull you into its swell, to push up on the board, center your feet and turn into this amazing force of nature is utterly captivating. I am by no means a good surfer, but I paddled into 9 waves and stood up on 6, that’s 66.7% or two thirds of my time spent standing up on waves. Im proud of me on this day. Today was definitely a highlight of the summer and I’m hoping there are many more days like this before winter creeps in.

I called it quits only after my shoulders were burning and when I could not feel my purple, shaking hands anymore. I was once again, proud. I dragged the board back to 227 2nd ave, rinsed it off and then proceeded with my own rinsing. Another true highlight of the day. One of the msot simple of pleasures and I revel in this every day that I am here in ‘Squan, the outdoor shower. Its still overcast, its still raining large, cold drops on my head, but this is all intermixed with the heat of a steamy shower outdoors. No fogged up mirrors. Steamy, muggy, rainforest like shower. No, this is the cool breeze blowing through the wooden planks of the shower installment. A view of the cloudy skies as it drips air cooled drops on my face. Some soap and a sigh of relaxation. This is a tiny slice of heaven on earth. No matter where I decide to finally lay the foundation of my life, I feel that one necessity, one simple pleasure that I must have, is an outdoor shower.

The only phrase that keeps coming to mind is “today was a good day.” I think Ice Cube might be the rapper for the summer if only for the fact that he penned the gangsta anthem, “today was a good day”. I’m bringing that back as the official summer jam of 2010 for me. Official. Thanks Mr. Cube for your lyrical prowace and for scribing a song that still holds true two decades later.

Sent from the streets…

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  1. July 23, 2010 at 15:40

    outdoor showers: in my top 3 Favorite Things in the Universe.

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